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A few years ago the Costa Brava had a bad reputation. It was thought
to be very common to visit this coast. With reason it did have a bad
reputation because of the few resorts that were created to attract tourists
to the area. Nowadays the resorts attract young families and the beaches
are particularly safe
for young children. For an adult one has to wade out for quite a way
before the sea comes up to the waist.
There are also many places to visit when you are tired of lying on the
beach. Around the area fanning out from the ancient market town of Torroella
de Montgri there are several medieval villages. Pals is one example,
but for me they have restored it too well and in doing so it has lost
some of the original character. The village though does have an amazing
vantage point from the Romanesque church looking out across the plain.
Ullastret has not been restored and has much of the original character
about it. One morning I visited it. It was playtime in the morning for
the local primary school. The pupils, wearing the smocks that all the
children wear girls and boys, were playing in the small playground. It
must have been a small school because there were very few pupils.
Peratallada another example. On entering the village to the right is
still the original track With the indentations of the cart wheels from
centuries of use. They are all working, living villages and people going
about their daily lives.
Besalu in the direction of Olot is another ancient village. It is reached
by a bridge across the river. There is a portcullis at the entry between
the walls of the town. There are good renowned restaurants to sample
the local produce. In the early sixties a Jewish Bath House was discovered
and excavated down some steps near the river side of the church that
is near the entrance. It is almost in the original state as when first
built. To visit it you must go to the Tourist Office for a key.
Cadaques is a village with a lot of atmosphere nestling around a bay.
It has narrow cobble stoned streets and the church stands on the highest
point of the town overlooking the bay. It is a retreat for artists during
the summer and attracts people from Barcelona Province in the month of
August. Sit outside at the tables and chairs in front of the many restaurants
and watch the world go by. The next village is Port Lligat where Dali´s
summer house remains. It is a world away from the hustle and bustle of
the tourist trail. To reach these destinations, take the road from near
Rosas where you climb up to the top of the mountain behind Rosas. You
will notice evidence of vines having been grown because of all the terracing
and small shelters. The vines were infected by phylloxera at the turn
of the last century. Now though I have noticed that vines are being planted
in certain places
Then if you feel like combining a day with lunch and a spot of history
you could head up the N 11 towards France. On arriving at the outskirts
of La Jonquera at a roundabout
Turn left towards La Vajol. There are many supermarkets for the truckers
that have to visit customs in La Jonquera. The journey up to La Vajol
is a climb because you will be going up into the foothills of the Pyrenees.
You will notice cork trees that have been freshly cut for the local cork
factory. You will go through a sleepy town Agullana. It always looks
asleep and people a rare sight. At the outskirts to La Vajol you will
notice a sign saying to the Memorial of Luis Campany. The memorial is
on the Spanish/French border. It dates from the civil war when Luis Campany
went into exile to France and was later captured by the Germans. He was
subsequently returned to Barcelona and shot.
The restaurant I would recommend is the Restaurant Comaulis in the Plaza.
It is a very simple restaurant with simple but good food. You will also
notice the prices are a lot less than on the coast. Next take the road
out towards Maçenet de Cabrenys and the sign ¨Las Mines¨.
They are magnesium silicate (talc) mines that ceased being used in the
sixties. During the Civil War paintings from the Prada Museum and quantities
of gold were shipped to Mexico by the Government packed in talc for safekeeping.
Lastly, to sit and people watch and while away an hour or two visit the
Plaza Major in Sant Marti with the nearly complete surrounding wall,
next to Ampurias the most important Roman site in Spain. This small village
was once an island. In the Plaza there are restaurants and you can sit
outside and have a coffee or at lunchtime have a bottle of wine and tapas
that make up a satisfying snack. There is a Romanesque church on the
far side of the square where would be brides like to be married. The
interior is very simple but very beautiful.
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